fashion low down

It may be 1965 on Mad Men, but Don, Sally, Betty, and Roger’s problems are summed up best by Bowie in 1971: “Time may change me, but I can’t trace time.” Betty, Roger, and Sally cannot get over their issues and move on, but the world is changing around them rapidly. Betty will forever loathe Don, Roger will loathe the Japanese, and Sally is acting out over her parents’ neglect and harsh techniques.

Even though Betty’s anger is spiraling out of control, I’m happy to have her back after a two episode absence, mostly for the dramatic return of her amazing wardrobe. Her 1950s housewife look of seasons one, two, and three has given way to her ice queen wardrobe of 1965. Gone are her full skirts and flouncy blonde locks, replaced by super slim, stoic pieces and the worst helmet hair I have ever seen.

Her first look is a blue turtleneck that’s knit so tight it needs a zipper down the back to allow the wearer to put it on. Worn with slim black and gray horizontal striped pants, something only an ex-model could pull off, this look is cut so close to the body that any excruciating movement and it would rip at the seams, much like Betty herself. She later wears an ivory cardigan with red floral trim over a blue dress, a white nightie with a pink ruffly cover-up, and finally, a sky blue dress with white piping and pearls to meet with Dr. Edna. Every look is neurotically perfect, from the tailoring to the accessories, I’m guessing from the lack of wire hangers in her closet–if you get my drift.

With the return of Betty comes the return of Henry Francis. Henry is unwelcome in my heart not only because I’m a loyal Don supporter, but because his penchant for hideous sweaters is rivaled only by that of Bill Cosby. The cross over collared sweater he wears feels uncomfortable and creepy. I guess the real problem is this: important men of 1965 have a dress code. Suits or shirts; no sweaters. Even when Don drops off the kids he’s in a fedora and red polo shirt. Why is Henry always in a sweater? Is it that he is weak or because he’s untrustworthy? Either way, I expect more from a politician type. His perma-sweater is signaling his strange nature, and I’m just waiting for that to manifest itself.

Also making a triumphant return is the wonderful Sally Draper. Sally is one of the most intriguing and best-developed characters on Mad Men, and she’s only ten! Sally’s first look is an ivory sweater over a patterned shirt and knee socks, deceptively innocent looking, until she chops her hair off in a Taylor Momsen mullet. No worries though, it gets repaired into a Betty Draper bob in no time. She later wears a pink and white nightgown complete with ruffles and sugary sweetness to counter her masturbatory acts. Finally, Sally gets her punk out at Dr. Edna’s in, what I can only assume was a subtle “F*** You” to Betty, a plaid jumper and shocking orange tights. Even more shocking was Carla’s bowler hat. I expect more from you Carla.

Family matters aside, the fashion at SCDP took a swift turn to chic with the arrival of the Japanese businessmen representing Honda, who all wore ties with an embroidered “H” on them. Everyone was on their best behavior to woo the clients, particularly Pete, whose electric blue suit was nowhere to be found. Instead he wears a series of gray suits that are authoritative but not overwhelming. Pete also rocks some of the skinniest ties since Hedi Slimane in this episode. Burt’s bow ties and careful mix and match aesthetic was spot on last night, as was Lane’s fantastic black suit jacket, black and gray vest, white shirt, and red tie ensemble.

But Roger. You know how to tell Roger Sterling is a conservative thinker? Because this entire episode he wears black on black three piece suits, potentially the most conservative thing you can wear other than a Richard Nixon costume. Roger is the silver fox of SCDP, but he’s starting to get a little too silver and a lot less foxy.

Don Draper also makes a triumphant return this episode, playing Don Draper better than he had ever before. Seemingly out of his binge drinking bender, Don is the only person that when met with a challenge, rises to the occasion instead of acting rashly. Don’s diagonal monochrome ties, the bane of my existence, took a hiatus for some newer black and gray thick striped ones. His gray suit during the meeting with Honda is unbearably wonderful, and his date night outfit with Bethany was quirky and relaxed. Bethany was channeling Holly Golightly verbatim, wearing a copy of Holly’s signature Givenchy black dress and a sophisticated updo.

The ladies at SCDP are struggling with change, too. Joan’s repitition of outfits, however real, is ruining her fashion potential. I’m not a fan of her navy and white ruffled dress or her plum colored suit. Joan was always a sexpot, but the changes at SCDP have made her more of a business woman, I just wish that those two could find a happier meeting point. Faye still looks like a glorified flight attendant, but her cunning is what make her fun. She drinks sake with Don in a yellow, navy, and white tie neck blouse and black pencil skirt, pumps off on the floor. Her faux wedding ring is a wise move in the sex crazed world of 1960s business, but a strange decision for a psychologist.

Finally, Peggy hit it home last night in a red and blue plaid dress, a black high necked dress with gradient beige striped pleats, and a black sweater and red skirt to ride in circles on a Honda motorbike. The last image of Peggy on the Honda was Irving Penn-ish, and brought back some classic Mad Men style that was a mainstay of previous seasons.

Late last Thursday, apparel manufacturer L.A. Triumph Inc., filed suit against Madonna, claiming that her “Material Girl” line for Macy’s threatens their own “Material Girl” clothing line that they have been selling since 1997.

L.A. Triumph is hoping a judge will rule that Madonna’s new tween line creates confusion among consumers (“deception in the marketplace” in legalese) and that Madonna should fork over all her “Material Girl” profits to L.A. Triumph.

So how is it that Madonna, the original “Material Girl,” she who sang the song, could be infringing on L.A. Triumph’s trademark?

We checked in with our resident fashion trademark expert, attorney Anne Sterba, of leading intellectual property firm Rothwell, Figg, Ernst & Manbeck, to find out if L.A. Triumph has a leg to stand on.

“The bottom line is that Madonna had a song and has been known as the ‘Material Girl’ but if she hasn’t sold any products under the name ‘Material Girl,’ she has no trademark in the name,” says Sterba. “Madonna has a copyright in the song, but a copyright and a trademark are completely different. L.A. triumph my have priority over her in respect to selling clothes under the “Material Girl” trademark and they could win.”

Sterba thinks Madge will likely file a counterclaim, and could argue that malicious intent on the part of L.A. Triumph, to market their clothes under the “Material Girl” name when the public knows Madonna as the Material Girl.

It should be interesting, to say the least, to watch this all play out.

Today, Dubai investment firm Istithmar World officially announced that former Gucci head Mark Lee would assume the role of CEO at Barneys New York.

Former Barneys CEO Howard Socol left the company in 2008 after rumored frustrations with the store’s new owners. Istithmar acquired Barneys from Jones Apparel Group in 2007 for about $900 million.

The recession worsened Barneys’ already shaky financial situation, and soon enough analysts began talking possible bankruptcy. Barneys previously filed for bankruptcy in the mid-’90s after a period of over-expansion.

This time around, it looked like a single investor might aim to take over the company. Billionaire Ron Burkle was purportedly interested in buying the retailer from Istithmar. The investment firm refused the offer, and eventually pumped more cash into the company.

The appointment of Lee can only be a good thing. Barneys is a pretty unique retailer in that its merchandising and creative are spot on–it’s the back end that needs work. Finding a leader who understands both sides of things is difficult, but Lee is probably the most qualified exec out there. The luxury retail vet has held positions everywhere from Saks Fifth Avenue to Jil Sander, and most recently, Gucci.

Image via Style.com.

I love my Gap x Pierre Hardy platform sandals, and I nearly bought last year’s towering pirate boots.

So it’s no surprise this autumn’s peep toe lace-ups are on my “To Buy” list.

The wedges have begun showing up on magazine market pages, and I’m happy to report that they’ll ring in at under $100.

Last fall, it seemed that most shoppers had quite a bit of difficulty finding the suede boots.

For some reason, I didn’t. They were available at the Gap right near my old office on lower 5th Avenue. And on the day in October Gap said they’d be there. So my ballpark estimation is mid-October. And don’t worry, I’ll keep you updated. Because I’m getting these guys come hell or high water.

Update: Success! The shoes are set to hit stores October 19, according to a Gap rep.

Vogue’s creative director and fashion industry icon Grace Coddington is writing a book about her life, reports WWD. Former Men’s Vogue editor-in-chief Jay Fielding, who has collaborated with Coddington in the past, is her writing partner.

Coddington’s mainstream notoriety has skyrocketed since The September Issue, which means the project is sure to be a hit with fashion insiders and fashion admirers alike. The stylist says that the book will not only cover her life–including her years as a model and time spent at Calvin Klein and British Vogue–but also plenty of fashion history.

As Anna Wintour’s Vogue begins to look less and less like “Anna Wintour’s Vogue“–as we know it, at least–expect more senior staffers to reflect on their legendary careers, whether through books, articles, or museum retrospectives. As the brightest star, it’s no surprise Coddington is leading the pack.

So it’s not 27 Rue de Fleurus, but this fall 79 Greene St. will be hosting a series of intimate salons, inspired by cultural gatherings like the ones Gertrude Stein hosted at that famous address.

Kiki de Montparnasse’s SoHo store will host four salons lead by the mysterious “Domina K” to school attendees in the art of love: partner play (open to couples), celebrating the sensual self (women only), the art of seduction (men only), and bedroom games (couples).

Guests will learn “sensual techniques,” learn about different “instruments of pleasure,” and “explore fantasies with joy and abandon,” while sipping on champagne and eating from a buffet of aphrodisiacs.

So if you’re looking to jump start your love life, try the salon. You might not see Picasso there but it still sounds like a good time. Each salon costs $65. Click here to RSVP.

Perennial model-in-the-spotlight Crystal Renn stars in Chanel’s newest campaign for the reopening of the brand’s SoHo store, and we got her reaction to the campaign just minutes after she had seen it herself.

“I’m absolutely freaking out,” she told us. “Working with Chanel has been my dream forever. As long as I’ve been working as a model I’ve been thinking about Chanel and working towards Chanel and this campaign is the proudest moment of my life.”

While Renn’s most recent campaigns (including that notorious retouched shoot for nonprofit Passion For Fashion) have brought attention to the so-called “plus size” model’s shifting body size, her latest print work for Chanel focuses on the model’s gorgeous face while a sultry Baptiste Giabiconi reclines topless in the background.

Renn believes her latest coup speaks to positive changes in the industry.

“I think the fashion industry is changing and is more open to a new ideal,” says Renn. “It’s about a personality and a moment captured..it’s not about body size it’s about talent and effort…I hope the industry sees this [campaign] as an example of that.”

As for that retouching scandal that landed her on the Today show? “Retouching happens,” says Renn. “It’s happened to other actresses and models and a lot of times models won’t come forward and they’re even relieved to be retouched. Don’t get me wrong, I love retouching but I”m very proud of my body and to portray me as a size zero or a two when I’m a ten, that’s inaccurate and I was concerned with how people who look up to me would see those ads.”

But she’s moved on. This is the second time Renn has worked with Lagerfeld (she walked in his 2011 resort show in Saint Tropez), and she sees no reason why the partnership won’t continue.

“Karl is a genius,” Renn says. “He’s a Virgo so we’re compatible and we got on really well.”

For the campaign, which was shot in a studio in Paris a few months ago, Lagerfeld asked Renn and Giabiconi to envision themselves as lovers in a glamorous movie. “He said, ‘You’re not a model right now, you’re an actress,’…the only difference between modeling and acting is that models have one second to tell a story and actresses have two hours.”

And acting as if Giabiconi was her lover was, shockingly, not so hard to do. “He is the most gorgeous man I’ve ever seen hands down,” Renn gushes. “I remember being on set and trying not to stare but staring at him methodically nonetheless to try to figure out how perfection in a male looks. It’s insane when you look at him. ”

So, we had to ask, is the next step for Renn acting?

“I haven’t been actively seeking acting roles but if the right opportunity came up, absolutely,” says Renn. The right part for Renn would be something dark and intense and challenging–no RoCo’s for this chick. We’d shell out $12 to see her on the big screen.

Factory PR, a New York-based public relations firm that reps some really great brands, is hiring an account executive! Here’s the description:

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE – WOMEN’S FASHION DIVISION

- Minimum of 3 years experience in fashion public relations – NY based agency (preferred) or brand in house.

- Strong written and verbal communication skills

- Strong media contacts with senior editors, journalists and stylists

- Proven feature and product pitching abilities

- Solid contact database for celebrity dressing

- A proactive, energetic and POSITIVE attitude

- An innate interest in fashion, media and entertainment

- Strong knowledge of Cision, Filemaker, Microsoft Office (Excel and Powerpoint) and Photoshop

Think you fit the bill? Email a resume and cover letter to hr@factorypr.com.

As I’ve mentioned before, finding a wedding dress, a wedding veil, wedding shoes, what-have-you, are not easy tasks to accomplish. There is a ton of product, plenty of ugly product, and not really many places–stores, magazines, or websites–that offer trustworthy suggestions.

That’s all about to change with The Aisle New York, a members-only website, set to launch the first week in October, that aims to offer brides-to-be a place to shop for everything, get ideas, and just enjoy the whole pre-wedding experience.

Yesterday, I met with site’s co-presidents, WWD and W vet David Yassky and former corporate lawyer Shara Levy. Essentially, the duo–along with renown bridal boutique owner Mark Ingram (who serves as chief merchandising officer) and former Vera Wang creative director Deborah Moses (who serves at chief creative officer)–have built an online world for brides interested in more than cupcake dresses and tiaras. (Although there will be some of that, of course. It’ll just be well-edited.)

With the decline in high-end bridal boutiques–Saks got rid of all but two in the last couple of years–many brides just don’t have access to the Oscars, Veras, and Moniques of the world. They end up spending a ton of money coming to New York for a weekend of trying on dresses. Personally, I’d rather put that $2,000 or however much the trip costs towards a dress.

What’s more, there are a ton of niche bridal dress and accessory designers, as well as milliners, that most of us have never even heard of. Yassky, who spent years covering the market for WWD and Ingram, who’s been running a successful bridal boutique in Manhattan for years, know those designers. Which means we’ll be introduced to many under-the-radar hat makers and bridal experts, whether it’s through sales or the site’s editorial section.

The best news? Everything is discounted! The pieces are usually a season or two behind, and most are discounted by 50%. And it’s flash sales, which you’re surely familiar with. Each item will remain on the site for 72 hours. Along with the aforementioned designers, The Aisle New York will initially feature Angel Sanchez, Marchesa, Lela Rose, Reem Acra, Alberta Ferretti, Elizabeth Filmore, Jenny Packham…the list goes on.

And maybe even more important: There’s a great return policy! If you’ve tried on a dress before and you know that it fits, you don’t need to worry. But if you haven’t, you can purchase dress insurance for around $200. The insurance allows you to receive a full refund on the dress, and includes return shipping, etc. (Most sites that sell high-end bridal gowns, particularly at discount, only offer store credit on returns. Which, if you’re spending several thousand dollars on a dress, is pretty insane.)

The Aisle New York is offering automatic membership to Fashionista readers, so click here to sign up. And please, enjoy this experience! It’s supposed to be fun.

The Big Tweeze: Tweezing: we do it to look good, but we rarely look good while doing it (just watch the faces you make in the mirror next time you start plucking). Until now, that is–Betsey Johnson, in yet another somewhat strange collaboration, will release her line of designer tweezers for Tweezerman starting September 1. {Bella Sugar}

Dolce Dispute: Dolce & Gabbana and Selfridges have come to an allegedly mutual agreement to stop their partnership, come next spring. While neither party has pointed fingers, we can’t help but look on this with the same skepticism we have when couples “mutually” split–c’mon, guys. One way or another, somebody’s getting dumped. {Vogue UK}

Causing A Commotion: A Los Angeles clothing company is suing Madonna in regards to her new clothing line for Macy’s, claiming that they have been using the name “Material Girl” for years. Wait, who’s ripping off whom? Didn’t Madonna invent that phrase? Yeesh. {TMZ}

Chrissie Hynde is Still the Coolest: She’s currently collaborating with her ex-boyfriend, who is half her age, on both an album and a fashion collection. We wish we could handle something like that. {WWD}